Location, location, location

When it comes to planting, location is everything. Most fruits and vegetables and many ornamentals prefer a full sun location. Morning sun is next best, and some cool weather crops like broccoli, cabbage and lettuce can tolerate some shade. But before you start digging, consider having the soil tested. The results will give you an indication of mineral content, ph level (acidic to alkaline) and how much organic matter is present. With such an analysis, as well as a plan for what kinds of plants you’ll be growing, amendments can be tailored more precisely to your site. (Most county extension offices offer a soil-testing service for a small fee).
Don’t think too big with the first garden – starting small will give you an opportunity to make mistakes that don’t cost so much, and the small successes will encourage you in your next gardening venture.

Putting in a bed

In Texas or other places with notoriously difficult soils, consider a raised bed instead of roto-tilling or turning the soil by hand. Raised beds should be 12 to 18 inches deep for vegetables, but just 8 to 12 inches is enough for ornamentals. The raised planting area can be enclosed with timbers, stones or manufactured edging.
If the bed is replacing a lawn, weeds, grass and rhizomes must be removed first. One alternative to using toxic herbicides is to solarize, which works best when temperatures are high. First, water the garden bed area, then cover with clear plastic and weight the edges. Leave for four to six weeks, and refrain from turning the soil when it’s “cooked” to prevent unearthing new weed seeds. Though weeds may eventually surface, there will be fewer of them. Products like Natural Weed Control, a vinegar-based solution, can be used when necessary.
When the bed has had plenty of organic matter added and is ready for planting, choose plants and seeds that are well-adapted to your garden site. “Mother Nature’s plants have adapted to almost every square foot of this planet and can thrive without any care from man,” Malcolm Beck writes in “Lessons in Nature.” These plants became perfectly adapted through many years of natural selection and survival of the fittest.”
County extension offices offer a planting guide of varieties that are tried and true performers with optimum planting dates. Organic gardening clubs are also good sources for this information. Planting at the right time is key, especially in warm climates. Seed packet information is often incomplete and may not be accurate for your part of the country. Beware, in fact, of any gardening advice that isn’t region-specific.

Proper hydration

How you water is also important – both in terms of plant health and conservation. Watering deeply in the morning is the preferred method for both water conservation and disease prevention. Create zoned areas for plants, grouping those with similar water requirements to reduce waste. Drip irrigation has the benefit of applying water slowly, reducing the chance of water lost to evaporation or runoff.
The use of compost and mulch is a must for helping to reduce moisture evaporation from the soil and helping to moderate soil temperatures. The addition of a simple, cheap amendment such as leaf mold (leaves left to decompose on their own) to problem areas in the garden is so miraculous that many organic gardeners not only recycle their own yard waste but collect leaves and clippings from neighbors as well.

Moving on from the basics

Once the basics of organic gardening are mastered, gardeners typically find themselves intrigued by more in-depth applications and techniques. Green manures and cover crops are an easy way to increase soil fertility and prevent erosion from wind and rain. They can be grasses, small grains or legumes – the latter captures nitrogen from the air and makes it available to plants, according to Rodale’s “Chemical-Free Yard and Garden.” These are planted, then mowed in four to six weeks before planting or cut to be used in making compost or mulch.